Blog

Fontainebleau Video Volume 2

As promised, our second video of climbing in Fontainebleau. I've mainly been projecting hard boulders so I haven't been sending much. I've been challenging myself a lot and it's been frustrating at times, but that's what it takes. [vimeo video_id="31730159" width="580" height="326" title="Yes" byline="Yes" portrait="Yes" autoplay="No" loop="No" color="00adef"]

Leanna has been climbing well. She recently had two solid days where she completed two of her projects. The weather has been quite damp. The forest certainly does not want to dry after the rain and many of the holds stay damp-ish. Relative humidity is high, usually around 60-70%.

All of our friends (Seely, Pallek, Moher) have returned home so we're flying solo until we depart.

This video features Atmosphère assis, Hypothèse, and Le Mandarin Droite. Atmosphère assis is an amazing line that was recommended to us by our neighbour Bruno from Switzerland. Moher was psyched to find it so we went one day. The first move is likely the crux and it's unfortunately more difficult for short people. The direction of the line and the movement on this boulder is top notch. It is very pretty to see too with the sloping rail and the sharp arete. I'm surprised this boulder is not more popular.

Hypothèse is a classic hard problem at Cuvier. I think Jerry Moffat may climb it in "The Real Thing" but I can't be sure because I don't have the DVD here. The first hold is a small crimp. After that you float up the boulder on virtually non-existent feet. You can't "try the top" moves or anything (this is typical in Fontainebleau because of the style of the boulders) so you must start from the bottom each time. It took me 4 or 5 sessions to complete. Some of those sessions were in bad conditions or while tired. The start crimp has broken a few times since it received the original grade, so many believe it could be more difficult now. They have not adjusted the grade to reflect the new difficulty.

Le Madarin Droite is another beautiful boulder. Maybe not the most beautiful in appearance but it has some really wonderful movements. You may see in the video when Adam reaches for the lip of the top of the boulder that he has a left toe hooked underneath. These floaty / drifty moves are so much fun and sometimes you wonder how you're able to move from these positions at all. The humidity during that video was insane. Once the sun goes down the conditions get worse instead of better. The humidity skyrockets and the rock gets really moist. You'll see me brushing the wet chalk off as he's climbing.

Hope you like the video. Please comment.