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Chinese Connection

After some hard work and some proper punting, I pulled off a local test-piece called Chinese Connection at Mortar Rock (near Berkeley, CA) on New Year’s Eve. The rock at Mortar is volcanic, sharp, and not so pretty to look at, but there are some really fantastic lines there, with Chinese Connection, in my opinion, being the best. The first half is the most difficult – it requires full-body squeezing, pinpoint toe moves, and difficult underclings. Adding to the difficulty, the lower footholds have crumbled substantially over the past year (the rest of the problem is solid). The starting left foothold, at least where tall people put their foot, is now just a smear and it crumbled on me continually while I worked on the problem. After the first half, you then need to pull through the V9 stand-start (Mission Impossible) to make it to the top. Check out the video; it's the first one that I have ever made (I just got a new video camera)! Sorry, the production quality will get better as I get to know my camera and imovie better.

Anson

Chinese Connection (V13)