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Arkansas, Spring Break 2012

Spring Break 2012 After attending my first semester of college at Front Range Fort Collins I was more than ready to head down to Arkansas to climb with friends. My spring break was a jumbled mess from the start, all my friends had different spring break schedules and I was left alone to find someone to drive down to Arkansas with. Finally, I found my partner Kona (Jes & my dog) she seemed psyched so we hit the road and I finished setting at Miramont. Thanks to some books and psych we made it close to Witichata, KS by 1am. We crashed in the car for a few hours and then hit the road early. Kona and I made it to Cole’s house by 3pm and then joined by my friend Kyle McCabe, from NH. Having just driven many hours we were all content to just do some nice warm ups which included some good 5.10s and 5.12s. This was a great warm-up for the projects we were to try later.

Arkansas is really growing on my and the endless undeveloped crags and boulders keep astonishing me. The days were hot during this trip and most of the walls hit the shade later in the day. Which no one complained about since we could sleep in a bit, but we did climb every day until dark, a muerte.

On this trip I got the chance to put up some amazing climbs bouldering and finally taking an FA a sweet route.

***** FA 13c, Private land in Arkansas.

Cole Fennel took me this area that had a beautiful wall filled with sport climbs. I was given the privilege to climb on what is said to be the best of Arkansas sport climbing. Thank you to Cole Fennel and the Owner of this private property for giving me this opportunity.

The beginning section of this climb had been done, but the extension was still a project and I was psyched to see what I could do on this amazing line. The route was brilliant with sand stone streaking from orange to black. Each move was fun and challenging. After giving it a really good flash attempt, and falling during the crux I rested 20 min then bagged the climb. The lower crux involves a hard flip to an under cling and dead point to a crimp. You do get a decent rest and then gear up for the next crux. Moving off a left hand crimp and an ok right foot you fire out to a gaston you wish is better than it actually is. Left foot needs to power off of a slopper.  Stay calm and bring first your right foot and then your left as you set up for a hard match. Move your hand and stand tall for the red point crux and with all your might stab into a good crimp and set your heel for a dynamic jump to a jug (relief!!!) Once you give it good shake cruise up the 12a section and clip or jump for victory.

Tatiana v12

Near the sex boulder (which has the climb Abb-lounge v9 or 10- we climbed quickly) there is an arête that Cole showed us which has been a long standing project. After some brushing I knew that the line would go and was psyched to spend time figuring out the beta with Kyle and Cole. After an hour or longer of beta configuration and a day to let it all soak in I climbed the boulder which I called Tatiana Arête v12.

The climb itself is amazing and I can’t say that I have done many of that nature.  You start under this roof and move out on good holds with power. You match the underling and get a massive toe hook above your head as you move your right hand to the lip. Then you mach toe hooks and heel next to your right hand. With you left hand still in the underling you bump to a crimp and set your left foot on a bad hold and go big to a right hand side pull on the lip of the arête. Don’t breath as you mach your toe next to your left hand in the underling, then bringing your body and left hand to the arête. Stabilize as you release your left foot and launch to the lip with one last burst of power.

 

There are still many projects that I can’t wait to tap into on my next visit. Thanks Cole for taking the time to show me around for six days straight and the hospitality you’ve shown Kona and I. Next time, lets plan for at least one rest day involving many Sapporos!