Here's another video I just finished highlighting a couple more problems that are not included in the current guidebook. [vimeo video_id="39283003" width="400" height="300" title="Yes" byline="Yes" portrait="Yes" autoplay="No" loop="No" color="00adef"]
The first line, Shark Tooth V9, was put up by Paul Nadler a couple years ago and has seen one other ascent that I know of by my buddy Andrew Spencer.
The crux involves holding tension and body position on smooth sloping holds that see sun all afternoon. Definitely a temperature dependent boulder, but a tough and satisfying problem regardless. We got lucky with some overcast weather and a cool breeze on the day of filming.
The second problem is one that has been bugging me for a while. Ever since heading out to Andrew Spencer's neoclassic Spittin' Vemon I have been looking at the arete to the right. Two years ago I was able to do it from a lame crouching start that felt forced and since then I have always wanted to take some time and figure out a full sit start.
Two days ago I sat under the arete again and found a highly improbable sloping mono dish that I began using as a joke, however once I found the right feet and body position I was able to utilize this little guy for the first ascent of the full sit start! I named the line Poison Control and have no idea how hard it is. It felt around V9, but I'd love to hear some consensus. Get out there, grab the second ascent and know what you think. In the mean time enjoy the video!