Blog

Font 2011 - Video - Some classics 6B - 7C

[vimeo video_id="29788217" width="400" height="300" title="Yes" byline="Yes" portrait="Yes" autoplay="No" loop="No" color="00adef"] Fontainebleau is one of my favorite places to climb. Here is a short video from last Spring, when Chris and I spent 2 months there. We didn't have the best weather but we still had some fantastic climbing days. In the video there are a few snippets of problems and a few full problems. The video is by Chris Schulte.

Full Problems:

Coup de Cymbale (7a/+) at J.A. Martin - This is a strange little problem in a corridor. I think it is height dependent, or at least I felt very stretched out. You do a big move to an arrowhead shaped hold, then a few more easier moves and a mantle that is a little more spicy than it first looks. Especially if you are thinking about what is behind you.

L'Elephant highball swiss cheese face (don't know the name) - This is a fantastic climb. Super fun, big jugs up a tall face, so it is very approachable for a variety of abilities and, if you are feeling scared, you can down climb. The landing is sandy and flat so it inspires confidence. The down climb is easy. A great climb.

Les Nombrilistes (7a+) at Vallée de Champlaid - The bright orange slab. This problem is quite insecure and the crucial slopey sidepull near the top was damp the day we did it so it took some very delicate movement. It sits all alone and is sort of hard to find but very worth the effort.

Appartenance (7c) at Buthiers Piscine - An awesome problem. Very easy to see from the loop road that circles through the forested recreational area of Buthiers. Any day here you will see hikers, climbers, trials bike riders, people playing tennis, swimming, riding bicycles, etc... Up the hill there is a ropes course and more recreation, in the center is a climbing gym that has a pop-top for good weather.  This problem was quite inspiring to me, especially because of the delicate mantle at the midpoint. You're not done til you're standing all the way up, and though the landing is flat the fall is still a bit far. Pic below.

For more on these boulders and on Font in general check out this fantastic site: Bleau.info : bouldering in Fontainebleau.