The early fall was amazing here in Squamish! Bone dry and cool temps aided by light winds. Conditions like this made it easy to find the psych, taken from me by the summer heat, and put it to good use up in Paradise Valley. The setting can be described as magical. Large, tight grained granite boulders strewn along the banks of a crystal clear stream surrounded by huge broad-leafed maple trees in all their fall glory. Perfection! This fall I establish over 50 new lines up there as well as showing some love to a few quality problems that were starting go green. Although we’ve been climbing up there since 2002, Paradise isn’t in a guidebook yet so it doesn’t see that much traffic. Sure people climb there regularly but not in the hoards you see at the Grand Wall boulders. I’m of two minds about it because it’s nice to climb in solitude yet without others climbing there and giving the problems the odd brushing, it will be reclaimed by the ever encroaching moss. I was heading up there everyday after teaching and on the weekends all fall. It was bliss. I was coming home tired but excited about new lines I’d found or problems I’d sent. Oddly enough, right before the rainy weather set in for what seems like forever, I was running a lap on one of my favourite problems up there called Phantom Menace and when I threw to the finishing edge I felt my finger tweak. I’m now nursing an injured lateral collateral ligament in my left ring finger. It feels so lame to go from climbing everyday to nothing at all. I’m praying for this injury to heal up quickly so I can feel ready for our trip to Bishop in February. I’m also praying for some dry weather because even if I can’t climb I wouldn’t mind getting some more new lines ready to go for when I can.