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Spring bouldering in the Niagara Glen

On April 02 weekend I went bouldering in “The Glen” with my friends Joe, JM, Pallek, and Denise. I’d had enough of this shit weather here in Ottawa. There’s still too much snow to boulder locally – I had to get out. The guys were easy to convince and we decided Niagara was the destination. It was calling for small amounts of rain, up to 40% chance, but the weather was incredible the entire weekend. [vimeo video_id="22121350" width="580" height="326" title="Yes" byline="Yes" portrait="Yes" autoplay="No" loop="No" color="00adef"]

JM, fresh off his return drive from Bishop, had the stamina to drive Pallek and myself straight to Niagara Falls in one push from Ottawa. We didn’t downshift from St. Laurent to Lundy’s Lane. We got a nice room at the Travelodge using Govn’t rate. Saturday I woke up psyched. I hadn’t been to The Glen since 2008 so a return was long overdue. I was excited to get on real rock so I ran around touching everything. Saturday I did some repeats of some classics and super classics. JM sent Super Sharp Shooter V6 with some short person beta. Joe also sent, which was EPIC, in all meanings of the word. I eventually made it over to The Gunt, a V11 FA’d by Tim Doyle apparently of all people! I blew the flash, falling on the first “hard move” after not getting the hold correctly. I put a session on, but I was holding everyone back so we packed it up and moved over to Bizarro. In Bizarro I showed JM The Real Bruce Lee, a classic V9 eliminate. It climbs on a slightly overhung vertical face on sloper crimps and sidepulls. I tried it in the past in 2008 but I didn’t know which holds to eliminate. Now that I had beta, it went down after about 7 goes. It’s great. JM was also super close, but at the end of the day it was too much for him. Nogoko V7 was not too much for him however and he sent it with ease.

After that, went back to The Gunt to put another handful of attempts on it, but being too tired at that point we packed it in for a good dinner at Syndicate and then to the room. I was so tired I was falling asleep at the restaurant.

Sunday was breakfast with my friends Al, Nikki, and Sarah, all of whom I see very infrequently and it was amazing that the timing worked well to see them at all. Back down to the Glen with another day of stunning conditions. There are no leaves yet, or buds, or any green of any type however. Very grey and serious. The forest was wide open covered in decaying leaves on the ground. Blue skies again and nice temperatures. We warmed up in Oz where Joe bagged his second proj – Thunder and Lightning V6. I took everyone down to the river to climb on the sandstone, where JM flashed The Pondering V5 and Joe got a quick ascent as well. Pallek was very close. JM also snagged a quick ascent of The Honeymoon V8 on his way out.

I went back to The Gunt, sent that piece and then went to Danzig to meet up with Pallek. JM was super close on the low start to Life O’Reilly V6 which is around V7. I did the stand, then had a rare ascent of the sit to Electric French Fries V6. I love that climb. The grips are so cool.

In the end it turns out that JM was awarded climber of the weekend.