100 V10+ and Bishop Video

For a while now I’ve been really excited to achieve a small personal climbing goal – climbing one hundred boulder problems that are V10 or harder. I noticed in Hueco that I was relatively close. I haven’t been chasing V10 to achieve it but I’ve been excited every time I do another V10+. Before taking a week off I had a great climbing day with fellow Flashed athlete Max Moore in Las Vegas. He showed me a bunch of the new boulders he has been climbing and I repeated all of them and managed to get my 100th V10+. I can't wait to get my next 100.

I recently made a new video featuring only a small collection of the climbs that were done during our 3 weeks in Bishop California.

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Here’s some spray about some of the climbs I did recently:

The Aquarium V12 – Amazing cool boulder problem. You start climbing up this soft V10 and then traverse a long ways out this roof. The Crux is a hard drop-down move. 17+ hand moves. Lately I’ve been psyched on these long power endurance routes. Such as…

Bubba Lobotomy V12 – This is a traverse into Toxic Avenger (one of the best problems ever). The traverse isn’t very long but it makes the crux dyno at the end of Toxic Avenger really hard. I fell like 25 times at the last move. The pockets rip up your skin so much. I had so much fun working this one.

Cholos – V9 (featured in the video below) – One of the hardest V9 I’ve done. It’s certainly V10 difficulty if you ask me. It has the smallest pocket I’ve ever pulled on – a half-pad first two finger open pocket. Ends with a crazy slow-motion dyno (see the video).

Mandance V11 (featured in the video below) – This one is super hard in my opinion. You don’t see a lot of people doing this one. Super painful first hold and then just hard moves. My feet cut and I swung around 5 times before being able to put them back on. Crazy.

Viva Las Vegas

Well, another 4 weeks come and gone and another great bouldering trip in the bag. After Hueco we spent a month in Las Vegas with my friend Adam. I only took a little over one rest day a week and climbed on some really amazing boulders, some of which are likely in the collection of the best in the country. World class for sure. Climbs like Stand and Deliver, Wet Dream, Lethal Design, Americana Exotica, Gription, Lindner's Roof. There's so many top-quality boulders in Las Vegas. In 4 weeks I managed one day ascents on 2 V11, 6 V10, and maybe 5 V9. Of all the climbs I completed the only ones I didn't manage to do in one session were Slice and Dice V9, Scare Tactics V10, and Lethal Design V12. Slice and Dice is just really hard for me (see video), Scare Tactics needs some beta on the starting position, and Lethal Design is just a massive undertaking (unless you're Paul Robinson or Alex Johnson).

The best part of my trip was my ascent of Lethal Design. I don't have video footage of my send burn (my camera woman was taking a rest day and my one spotter thankfully chose to spot) but this climb is a long climb with 17 hand moves on tiny crimps before encountering the highball vertical topout above a pit of deadly talus adding maybe another 6 to 10 hand moves. Word is that I managed the 5th ascent. It took me a couple efforts to get all the moves and my beta figured out and then a couple more sessions to finally complete it on red-point. I don't have much endurance so I really need to try hard on a problem like this. Really quite hard for me. It's ascents like this that remind me that climbing is different for everyone and one problem while easy for one person can be totally different for another person. The only climbs I left undone were Atlus Shrugged and Burnt. I'll have to return to complete those. So close, falling past the crux (I hate that).

Here's my Las Vegas video. Lots of the climbs I did with Adam. Fun times for sure.

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We're in Bishop now for the next 3 weeks. Time to get re-psyched. After a couple rest days here I hope to get some great climbs under my belt.

Winter Update - Carter Lake! + Bishop + Yosemite!

Well, sort of a lot and not much has been happening for the last few months. I've driven around some, visited family, climbed a little. The weather has been...unusual.  Way drier and warmer than normal. One result of this was that as I drove through California I had a couple of fabulous days in Bishop.

Bishop hasn't seen a dry winter with perfect temps in a few years. When I was a younger climber every winter, no matter how crappy the weather was up north by Lake Tahoe and Reno, and no matter how bad the weather report for Bishop said things would be, Bishop itself could always be counted on to be sunny and cool--perfect for climbing in a t-shirt yet sticking to the rock. Then came the bad years---the feet of snow that closed down the Buttermilks repeatedly and set every vagabond in the pit on the 17 hour drive to across four states to Hueco.

Now things are back to normal, in Bishop at least. I got a chance to hang out with my good friend Israel and finish up some old projects on glorious afternoon at the Happy Boulders. A few weeks later I came back again for an afternoon at the Buttermilks with my good buddy Alex Johnson (who pretty much crushed her way through some highballs--read about it here:  Bishop Bouldering Blog: Alex Johnson, Golden Age (2nd?) and More), watched an exciting 49ers game and had dinner with some friends,

...and then headed OVER TIOGA PASS to boulder for a few days in Yosemite!

For those of you who don't know, this is crazy because Tioga Pass is never open in January. Never. It is always buried in snow. But this year?  Open, dry and clear. Families were ice skating and picnicking on the ice. Alex and I stopped to slide around a bit, which was fun for the novelty if for no other reason. Then we packed back in and made our way to the Valley proper where we met up with good friends for some fun bouldering in the best temps I've ever seen in the Valley. It was crisp and cool but not too cold, and so very dry that the granite felt fantastic.

After watching Alex crush her warm-up of Orion (V7 highball, last move is the most committing) and then do Drive On (V10) in 2 tries we headed down the trail to the classic Great White (V1?) which we climbed with our friend Sasha and her dad Tom, and old-school Valley climber who proved he's still got it as he literally vaulted over the top outs of Great White and the V2 to its left.

The next day Alex, Sasha, and Tom headed off to do a long route somewhere and Kelly Sheridan, Kyle O'Meara and I had fun in Camp 4. The highlight of the day for me was the group send of Battle of the Bulge, a V6 that I don't even know if I've tried before but did 1st go this trip after watching Kyle demonstrate the beta. Kelly, who is a strong climber but has feeling out of sorts due to his recent four-year bout of Law School, also managed to climb the problem in only a handful of tries.

Now I'm back in Colorado and the weather here is unusually dry. Last weekend we went out to local area Carter Lake to have some fun in what we hoped would be nice temps. The air temp was nice, as was the sun, but a few periods of gusting winds definitely made us tired by the end of the day. Now it's time to check out the new bouldering by Rocky Mountain National Park as even Estes Park is unseasonably dry, meaning the best temps in years are available on some of the low lying boulders. I'm psyched, as the drier temps hopefully mean no more pressure splits like I got in Font last year:

Hope everyone had a good holiday, and here's to hoping for enough moisture to replenish the watersheds but enough dry days for sending!

Bishop Video

Back in November I went to Bishop for a very quick one week trip with some friends. I managed to get some stuff ticked off even in such a short period of time. I didn’t take many photos, and only took one video. The video was not of myself, but of my friend Alanna. The climb is called Done with the South. Really cool wave, highbally. Enjoy, and please comment.

The volume is kind of low so you may have to turn up your headphones or speakers.

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