Olivier Turgeon

When I started climbing in 2006 at the age 26, I was really into snowboarding: everything I did was oriented towards it. At that time, I didn’t think I could find another sport that would fulfil my life better than riding my board. In the summer of 2008, everything changed when a friend and I spent 5 weeks in Squamish and we had a blast! Years have passed and my passion for climbing has only increased. I haven’t stopped snowboarding but my life is now completely climbing oriented. You may find me at the base of a long multi-pitch with a full trad rack for an adventure, hangdogging while trying my new project, pulling on plastic, carrying one (or two, or three!) crashpad and a huge chalk bag ready to spend the day with some friends bouldering, or even wondering in the woods all by myself just for the fun of it. I may be found defeated by the rock but always psyched.

Everyone has his own approach to climbing. Mine is pretty simple: If climbing is all about trying to move on the rock, then I think trying hard is the only way to improve and improving is rewarding whatever the difficulty of the climb. This can explain why it sometimes feels more satisfying to try hard on a project I probably won’t get this season than to climb ten easier classics in a day.

Nevertheless, I do climb for many other good reasons.

I enjoy bouldering especially for the puzzling aspect of the sport. I am often amazed by how a problem can go from impossible to done when you find “THE” sequence that suits you. As the saying goes, the devil is in the details

Speaking of details, you can follow my girlfriend Catherine Vaillancourt and I at goneclimbing.wordpress.com.